We are now in 1921/1922 and for the first time, which boldness !

The sailor  suit is proposed in two versions. It is necessary indeed to clarify in passing order " modèle fillette" ( girl model ) " or " modèle garçonnet" ( little boy model )

Because this small suit always called "Marin" ( Sailor) is realized either classic with pleated skirt (always the pleat in front ), or also with the same pea-jacket but weared on a delicious trousers with turn-up. It is (they are) proposed in navy blue nubienne , in white twill or, the other novelty, in blue or green jersey. In the only one catalog of this winter, eight sailor suits, four possibilities of choice in two different versions.

Bizarrely moreover, ( see illustration above) Bleuette on the right seems very intrigued with the hat held in the back by that of the left: a beret to pompom isn't it ? !


Summer, 1922, new proposition: in blue and white stiped twill what it is raised the choice in seven! !

Winter following, 1922/1923, this last version disappears as well as the nubienne version but we can see very sharply that the beret of the " Garçonnet " is different from the beret " Fillette ", but without pompom. (These precision are useful to date exactly a garment or to recognize more or less slavish copies.). Only Jersey in two shades is maintained for the two versions what returns to six propositions all the same! It is incredible!

And it is not finished ......!


costume-marin-bleuette-1923/24

In summer, 1923, it is again abundance: four versions for " Fillette " (in serge, in Jersey, in white or striped drill and three for the " Garçonnet( blue serge, green jersey, white drill; It seems to have really never existed in striped drill).

Remark : Bleuette costs 10 fr, the garment of "Garçonnet " 8,45 fr.
In winter, 1923/1924, if the kind "Garçonnet-suit" in blue serge or green jersey, with the specific beret and its white-collar is always topical, a quite new model "Fillette" appears : navy blue skirt completely wrinkled always the pleat in front -, red pea jacket and charming beret fiting well into head.... with pompom this time! The cost 8,90 fr (Bleuette is sold always 10 fr). Of course, novelty, we know it, is expansive, but the two other previous versions are still there for the same price in blue serge and green Jersey.


On spring /summer, 1924, the only one " garçonnet "model is presented drawn in white, very charming. Also proposed in blue serge with white-collar or in white drill, with blue-navy collar. A suggestion is brought: " For the sailor-suit, " Fillette " or " Garçonnet ", a "Jean Bart " hat of straw with ribbon, golden engraved name is supplied for 3 fr " The straw is natural tint and the ribbon of black silk". (I have personally seen some marked "Verdun", the still very present souvenir of the war).

This time, the suit costs 11,70 fr or 11 fr according to the chosed hat , more expansive than Bleuette 
But in winter 1924/1925, a only one version is resumed, that of the previous winter: the girl's suit with navy blue pleated skirt, red pea jacket, blue-collar matched with the skirt and the beret with a " big " pompom.

jean-baet pour bleuette 1924

 

Marins de 1923

And the summer, 1925, confirms the progressive disappearance of the "Garçonnet"-version nevertheless so becoming. The sailor suit always so beautifully drawn is proposed completely in blue serge, in blue serge with a red pea jacket, in white drill with blue collar. The beret, again lost its pompom for summer but we shall see again it.....

In Winter 1925/1926, we find it such as previously describes , this time with the same beret but....in red, trimed with a navy blue stripe engraved gold. However "garçonnet"- suit is mentioned, for the last time and only in blue serge. Some details were still in stock ! It disappears moreover definitively in Summer, 1926, to leave the place to "Fillette" in its three classic versions: blue serge, navy-blue skirt + red pea jacket, white drill with blue-collar.

Always the small beret, very fiting into head, without pompom.....

And in this same catalog appears, for the first time, what one can call the slogan of this small garment :

" Le costume classique et de tout-aller , c'est le MARIN "
( The classic suit to go everything, is the SAILOR SUIT)
There will be antoher one, we shall see farther.
And then from 1926/1927 and until summer, 1928, always present, it remains unchanged, outgoing in blue and red for winter, with beret with pompom (does it hold warmly! ?....), and still the same in summer, (without pompom  ) and that in white drill with white or blue -collar.

But this same summer, 1928, a novelty : the same sailor-suit but in blue woollen garment - curious for the season-, and red pea-jacket, 13 fr, matched with another slogan :

" MARIN est le bon petit costume classique pour la promenade, pour la classe, pour les jours sans cérémonie "
(SAILOR is the good small classic suit for the walk, for the classroom, for the informal days)

And Bleuette takes advantage of it to make a jump: 18 fr with wig in artificial hair, 21 fr in natural hair, prices to which it is necessary to add sending for France: 5 fr, i.e. an increase of 30 % in eighteen months. We are on the side of the crash of 1929 and Bleuette stirs.

This navy dress of woollen fabric remains the only one proposed during winter 1929/1930. And the pompom of the beret does not seem to be a summer or winter coquetry finally. It presence or not has to depend on loads of confection. For all that, when it is not present, price does not lower.....more 2 fr this year there ( Bleuette costs always 20 fr).

Marins de 1922

And from the summer, 1930 to winter 1931/1932, two models remain unchanged. The slogan evolves:

" Un ensemble toujours apprécié, toujours à la mode "
" Le sobre et classique costume toujours à la mode "
( An always appreciated, always fashionable set )
( The sober and classic dress always fashionably )

These slogans are interesting because they show well , by their updating, that the catalogs are not seen out year by year with one or two or three small differents models of clothes or dress. They are really resumed very regularly, year after year.

The summer, 1932, the ribbon of the beret was updated : we can read " Costes " very clearly (allusion to the exploits of the airman, Dieudonné Costes who made the tour of the world for the first time by plane in 1928/1929, held with Bellonte the world record of straight on-line distance 7905 km in 1929 and succeeds first connection without stopover Paris - New York in 1930 ! )

 

For winter 1932/1933, Ah ! indicated return this time with .... Pompom ! !
Unchanged thus in small details near whom allow the collectors to date both during these seven years apparently without essential novelties. But iti s naturaly to bounce better !
And then, in Winter 1933/1934, a new version : " Le marin rénové " ( Renewed Sailor Suit )......

Details of renewed Sailor :
Note the stings on the bottom of the sleeves against.
And the buttons of mother-of-pearl around the skirt from whitch the pleat in front of disappeared.

Note also stripes white with decoration on the collar and the small plastron.

It goes out in winter and will be henceforth resumed for a long time, in winter such as you see it on photos, in summer, either in this same version, or in white drill. In the first case, always two hats in choices, in red; in the second case, the two same hats but in white. Note also that for this last summer set, the sleeves will be henceforth always short, what was not never the case for this garment in the summer months. So the small girls can wear trousers (!) and show their arms in summer (!) ..
What great progress without seeming to get it but by seeing well ...... due to Bleuette. !
Since the previous winter, the presentation of clothes changes, any small slogan, just a brief but concise description. Only considerable whim of the draftswoman Manon Iessel, page 4 of the catalog of Summer, 1935, the cut of the lapel of sleeves, short so, and the disposal of stripes on these. It was never the case except surprise that searches could still reserve us but I doubt it.

And then, in the Summer catalog, 1937, a true novelty : next to the Sailor who occupies us, actually always identical to itself, hyper classical so, page 4 of the catalog, a very beautiful new dress : "Croisière" ( Cruise ), set consisted of long trousers of very fine white flannel, a blue and white striped shirt, a jacket (and not a pea-jacket) blue, with buttons of sea-anchors, all put on with a cap " of Naval Officer ", sold together 18,75 fr, or separately of somewhere else. So, these four details are not inseparable..

N.B. : lt is moreover funny to note that what is described here as a jacket will be called pea-jacket the following summer, custom is taken, That has raised my hesitances to represent this beautiful garment among " Sailor ".
It is moreover a summery dress which is not proposed in the catalog of the next winter but which finds its place in Summer, 1938. It costs 21 fr as much as one or other one of the classic versions of the Sailor.
Anything to note in winter 1938/1939,the two versions are always present, without changes, only the price change in the increase naturally of 10 %. In this last big catalog before war, haughtiness, more than 10 pages ! In brilliant complexions, the accent is moreover put on summer clothes of the seaside: Croisière so, Marin, Les Flots, (Streams), Petit Crâbe (little crab), Triton (newt), Sable Fin (fine sand), deck covers two pages of this onei.
 

The rare small catalog of first winter war (1940/1941) mentions the small classic Marin, still in sotck, for a price slightly superior. But in that rare also of the Summer, 1941, all the sea clothes are still present.

Winter 1941/1942, only the classic Marin is still there

That we find unchanged in the 1st catalog after the second war.
 

 

Spring, 1950, two versions reappear : always three details in " beautiful white madapolam " or ....striped of blue. (It reminds the beginning of 1920's ). But the price falls well , 270 F.! Was the cap or not included ? It is not clarified. This has to be reason because winter 1950/1951, the complete Marin costs ( there, it is clarified ) 477 fr, i.e, 67 fr furthermore than previous year and that of the summer following, in 1951 , costs it 384 fr so less expensive than winter model, certainly, but clearly more dearly than that of the previous summer ( the cap must not be taken into account). Spring, 1950, two versions reappear : always three details in " beautiful white madapolam " or ....striped of blue. (It reminds the beginning of 1920's ). But the price falls well , 270 F.! Was the cap or not included ? It is not clarified. This has to be reason because winter 1950/1951, the complete Marin costs ( there, it is clarified ) 477 fr, i.e, 67 fr furthermore than previous year and that of the summer following, in 1951 , costs it 384 fr so less expensive than winter model, certainly, but clearly more dearly than that of the previous summer ( the cap must not be taken into account).
At least, this summer , " Croisière " disappeared. But next summer, on 1952, it is proposed in drilll or in "piqué" with always the pleated skirt naturally, the blue-collar stocked with white braids and a beret; It is not any more naval officer's cap, a simple beret, in the same fabric as the set, lined with a blue ribbon matched with the collar and worn very behind, leaving well the face. 

Finally, winter 1953/1954, the name "Marin" so for a long time used disappears for the benefit of :" ATLANTIC "

So described : " sailor, pleated skirt, navy woollen, pea-jacket and beret of white woollen garment, name engraved on the ribbon. Three items : 485 fr ".

The same, under the same name, is proposed the following summer in white " piqué ", the collar and the lapels of the short sleeves blue. Word " Atlantic ", name of the garment, is moreover engraved on the ribbon of the beret. Any change, for the arrival of the Bleuette 35 cms (afterward called Rosette ) ; this one sees itself equiped in her turn of " Atlantic " to her size for 450 fr. That of her younger sister is 415 fr.And this last version of the sailor of our dolls of the " Semaine de Suzette " will be so maintained in its two versions, white for summer, navy blue and white for winter until the disappearance of the newspaper and the catalogs in 1960. It will finish its running for the three dolls ( for the record, there was " Bleuette 58 ") in 5,50 fr for Bleuette; 5,60 fr for Bleuette 58; 5,90 fr for Rosette.

After what, Gautier-Languereau pulls the curtain on a charming story which will disappear in the Atlantic Ocean? !... anyway..... with three versions of Atlantic; 


Crossing was long but here are our dolls arrived now and for already some years at the U.S.A. where they were able to known how to take foot for the biggest happiness of collectors attentive and fascinated.

N.B.: After the war, Japan getting modernized and copying all which came from West, bizarrely they are the girls who at first stopped wearing the traditional kimono, and got dressed fashionably European, that is , in sailor suit , very fashionable in Europe at this moment . Since this time, this charming suit is going to remain profoundly attached to the young Japanese students until today even-----------

 

Hélène BUGAT-PUJOL

 

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